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Despite our numerous efforts to convey our strong concerns to the European Commission and ironically just before the EU will present its single market strategy on the 21st of May, and has approved the EU PFCR for A&F.

We would like to inform you that on 15 May 2025, the European Commission apparently validated the French government's proposed regulatory framework for the voluntary environmental impact labeling of clothing the initiative, led by Minister Agnès Pannier-Runacher. (official announcement: https://www.ecologie.gouv.fr/presse/agnes-pannier-runacher-annonce-validation-laffichage-du-cout-environnemental-vetements)

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Agnès PANNIER-RUNACHER, Minister for Ecological Transition, Biodiversity, Forests, the Sea, and Fisheries, announced that the draft regulatory framework for the voluntary display of the environmental cost of clothing was approved by the European Commission on May 15, 2025. This is a major step forward in combating ultra-fast fashion and promoting French and European production.

The environmental cost reflects all the impacts generated throughout a garment's life cycle, from the production of its material to its end of life, including dyeing and manufacturing. It covers the carbon impact, but also the consumption of water, phytosanitary products, fossil resources, and even microfiber emissions. The methodology is based on the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) method developed by the European Commission. It complements it on certain aspects to cover all environmental issues: microfiber emissions, clothing exports outside Europe, and clothing durability.

Following a public consultation conducted at the end of 2024, the draft regulatory framework was notified to the European Commission, which validated the system on May 15, 2025. This method will now be examined by the Council of State. This paves the way for the deployment of environmental costs from the second half of 2025, still on a voluntary basis.

The environmental cost will, on the one hand, improve consumer information on the environmental impact of the products they purchase and, on the other hand, support manufacturers in managing their eco-design efforts. It thus constitutes an additional and essential lever to combat ultra-fast fashion, alongside the proposed law aimed at reducing the environmental impact of the textile industry, supported by the Government. It reminds us that each item of clothing has an impact and that this impact depends heavily on its lifespan.

"The upcoming implementation of the environmental cost labeling of clothing is a French victory. With this measure, consumers will be able to understand the environmental impact of what they consume, and sustainable producers will be able to stand out from the competition. This system is also an effective weapon for the State to reduce the disastrous environmental, economic, and social impact of ultra-fast fashion produced under conditions far less stringent than in France or Europe. The textile industry is one of the most polluting in the world; we are taking action to reduce this pollution and protect consumers and jobs. The fast-fashion bill being examined on June 2 will also move in this direction."

Agnès PANNIER-RUNACHER, Minister of Ecological Transition, Biodiversity, Forests, the Sea and Fisheries

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The labeling (which suffers from some criticism and is not fully aligned with PEF, will reflect the full environmental cost of garments over their life cycle—covering carbon emissions, water use, fossil resources, microfibre pollution, and more. It is based on the EU’s PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) methodology, with additional criteria including garment durability, microplastic pollution and export outside Europe.

Following a public consultation in late 2024, the framework was formally notified to the Commission and will now proceed to the French Council of State for final review. The voluntary rollout is expected to begin in the second half of 2025.

While the Commission has not opposed this initiative, it has announced that it will publish an opinion on 26 May 2025, raising some concerns from an internal market perspective based on some of FESI’s arguments.

We would also like to inform you that FESI has submitted strong concerns about the implications of this initiative to the Commission. Although the rollout is currently voluntary, FESI may still consider filing an official complaint once the French law enters into force through implementing decrees.

We will continue to closely monitor developments and keep you updated.

Please note that PEF Trust is organizing a timely webinar on this on the 28^th of May.

Registration link here: https://events.teams.microsoft.com/event/e6e5eeb7-086d-471f-8ec6-3042c3a880e2@11b0daf9-173b-4ef1-ba5e-21ad3217ae35

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