
Update on France’s Ultra fast fashion law
Please find below an update on the status of the so-called Fast Fashion law in France:
France’s long-awaited law to regulate fast fashion has evolved significantly since its introduction in 2024. Originally targeting all fast fashion players, it now narrowly focuses on ultra-fast fashion giants like Shein and Temu. This pivot reflects both political compromise and lobbying pressure, ahead of the June 10, 2025 Senate vote.
Who Will Be Targeted?
- New Focus: The law now explicitly targets ultra-fast fashion platforms like Shein and Temu, based on their massive volumes and daily release of thousands of new items.
- “European” Brands (Zara, H&M, Kiabi, Primark): Initially included in the law, are now exempt, following heavy lobbying and public endorsements from legislators and ministers defending their role in job creation and compliance with regulations.
Senator Sylvie Valente-Le Hir:
“I don’t want to touch a single cent from brands like Kiabi or Decathlon.”
How Is Ultra-Fast Fashion Defined?
- A legal definition is being introduced, based on:
- Number of new product references listed online daily
- Speed of renewal cycles
- Lack of durability or repair options
- Short product life spans
- A decree will set the threshold, but platforms like Shein (10,000+ items/day) will clearly qualify.
Financial Measures: Bonus-Malus & Penalties
- Originally Proposed: A blanket eco-tax of €5 to €10 per item by 2030.
- Revised Version:
- Malus now applies only to ultra-fast fashion, not all brands.
- The Senate voted to restore fixed penalty floors:
- €5 minimum per product in 2025
- €10 minimum by 2030
- Capped at 50% of product’s pre-tax price
Durability will be assessed via future environmental scoring systems—yet to be defined. This is important and means eco scoring has been added back into the text which could make the Eco score mandatory despite the announcement of making it voluntary.
Advertising Restrictions
- A full advertising ban for fast fashion was replaced with:
- A ban on influencer promotions (limited scope)
- A requirement to include environmental impact information in ads
- The government may ask the European Commission to allow a broader ban under e-commerce law exemptions.
Other Measures Introduced
- Taxation of small parcels from outside the EU (to hit Shein and Temu logistics)
- Public awareness articles added to promote education on fashion’s environmental impact
What’s Next?
- Senate Vote: June 10, 2025
- Joint Commission: If the Senate changes the text, a parliamentary joint committee will finalize the version
- European Coordination: The government positions this as a “first brick” toward a broader EU-wide strategy, especially around customs, e-commerce, and environmental scoring
Minister Agnès Pannier-Runacher:
“Only a European response will allow effective regulation of fast fashion.”
Business Implications
- Non-EU Platforms: Expect tighter scrutiny and growing compliance costs in France.
- European Retailers: Currently shielded, but long-term pressure (consumer, regulatory, reputational) is increasing.
- Logistics & Marketing: Parcel taxation and new ad restrictions may affect fulfillment and digital campaigns, even indirectly.
