on 25th November FESI were informed that Glimpact, a company specializing in environmental impact assessment, has filed an appeal with the French Council of State seeking the annulment of the decree introducing the display of the “environmental cost” of clothing in France. The company denounces a method it describes as “arbitrary”, “scientifically unfounded”, and “non-compliant with European standards.”

The appeal, submitted on November 8, targets the French government’s “ecobalyse” system, the calculation method behind the new Ecoscore.

Although currently optional, the Ecoscore came into effect on October 1. Brands may voluntarily use the label, which displays the “environmental cost” of a garment: the higher the number of “impact points,” the less environmentally friendly the product is considered to be but in 2026 any third party may be allowed the calculate the scores of products based on biased information negatively affecting the score.

The French Ecoscore claims to incorporate the 16 indicators of the European PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) methodology.
However, according to Glimpact, the French system imposes a “profoundly different” methodology from that recommended by the European Union.

Key criticisms raised by Glimpact

1. Ignored or overemphasized criteria

• Human toxicity and cancer risk are not included at all.
• Conversely, ecotoxicity—the impact of garments on ecosystems and biodiversity—has been given disproportionate and arbitrary weight, making it one of the most influential factors alongside climate-change impact.

2. Parameters seen as biasing the score

• exports of used garments outside the EU,
• microfibre emissions from clothing worn in France.
• overlooks physical durability,
• but gives weight to factors such as product type, weight, price, company size, and country of origin — elements Glimpact believes “bias the score and undermine consumer information.”

The French government maintains that it is intentionally going beyond the European method in order to:

• combat ultra fast-fashion, and
• support French and European production.

Glimpact, which provides a PEF-based calculation tool for companies, says it is directly affected by the French Ecoscore.
The company reports that several clients — including the lingerie brand Chantelle — have stopped displaying environmental scores, arguing that the French system is incompatible with the European framework they follow.

The annulment request filed by Glimpact on 8 November 2025 will now follow the standard review process of the French Conseil d’État. Based on typical timelines for this type of regulatory challenge, a ruling is expected between summer 2026 and early 2027, with the earliest possible decision around May–June 2026. The timing may vary depending on the complexity of the case and the written submissions required from the parties involved.