The Joint Research Centre has published its final reports on EU-wide End-of-Waste criteria for textiles, textile-related products and footwear.

The two reports cover:

• ‍preparing for re-use and remanufacturing of textile, textile-related and footwear waste; and‍
• recycling of textile and textile-related waste.

The reports are the result of several years of technical work and stakeholder engagement, including workshops, written consultations, bilateral meetings and site visits. They aim to support the development of harmonised EU-wide criteria determining when relevant waste streams may cease to be considered waste and instead be treated as secondary raw materials.

These reports are particularly relevant in the context of ongoing discussions on textile and footwear waste management, EPR implementation and the development of more harmonised secondary raw material markets across the EU.

Recycling report

The main elements of the JRC proposal include:

• ‍Scope: coverage of post-industrial, pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste, as well as textile fractions recovered from products such as footwear;‍
• Recycling technologies: a technology-neutral approach covering mechanical, thermo-mechanical, physical and chemical recycling, in line with FESI’s previous advocacy. Certain conversion technologies producing fuels or energy feedstocks are excluded;‍
• Input materials: requirements for eligible waste streams, including restrictions related to hazardous substances. The proposed treatment of pre-consumer textile waste may warrant particular attention;‍
• Quality assurance: requirements for quality management systems, third-party verification and statements of conformity for recycled material consignments;‍
• Imports: equivalent quality assurance and verification requirements for recycled materials imported from third countries.

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Re-use and remanufacturing report

The main elements of the JRC proposal include:

• ‍Scope: coverage of pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste, including apparel, accessories and footwear, regardless of material composition;‍
• Re-use and remanufacturing: two distinct pathways for granting End-of-Waste status, depending on whether products can be prepared for direct re-use or require remanufacturing;‍
• Product exclusions: certain categories, including technical textiles and protective footwear, would be excluded from both pathways, which may be particularly relevant for FESI members;‍
• Product quality: recovered products would need to meet minimum cleanliness, functionality and safety requirements, as well as applicable legislation and standards. Minor defects would be permitted where they do not compromise functionality or safety.
• ‍Quality assurance: operators would be required to implement quality management systems, undergo third-party verification and issue statements of conformity for each consignment. Similar requirements would apply to imports from third countries.

FESI have kindly provided an analysis of both reports.

Please note that the JRC proposals are technical recommendations and are not legally binding at this stage.