SUMMARY

• The Institut Français de la Mode published the first results of the BOND Standards project exploring extrinsic durability in the textiles sector. Members can find the report attached.
• Extrinsic durability refers to a garment’s ability to remain relevant and desirable over time, beyond physical performance. The topic is gaining attention at both national and EU level (ESPR, Waste Framework Directive).

MORE DETAILS

The BOND (Building On New Durability) Standards Project study highlights how most garments are discarded due to loss of desirability (extrinsic factors) rather than wear and tear (intrinsic factors).

The report provides a structured mapping of key drivers influencing garment lifespan, aiming to eventually develop an open-source digital tool designed to enable brands to evaluate their products' performance in extrinsic durability, and at the same time support customers in choosing more durable products.

The report is divided into three main sections:

• ‍Theory building, where, based on transdisciplinary literature from both academia and industry, the context for current extrinsic durability discussion is presented, alongside the current gaps in research and implementation - such as the lack of tools (like ISO standards for physical performance) useable to measure a product's extrinsic durability;
• The construction of an analytical framework, which identifies ten interdependent dimensions shaping extrinsic durability, spanning from psychology, to cultural elements, to neural &sensory considerations, alongside matters of marketing, sustainability and circularity. As a whole, the framework is intended to indicate "why physically durable clothes are often discarded before they are worn out, resulting in premature obsolescence";
• The expert validation of the study's finings, achieved through the Delphi-Régnier-to-Workshop method (defined in the report), involving iterative feedback sessions with experts within diverse fields.

The project aims to translate industry and academic insights on extrinsic durability into measurable indicators to support both industry practices and policymaking, which may be particularly relevant as the concept is gaining increasing attention at both national (e.g. French environmental cost discussions) and EU level (ESPR, Waste Framework Directive). The report represents a unique perspective on fashion and garment sustainability, and provides interesting insights as to why products may not reach their full potential lifespan, even when physically durable.

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NEXT STEPS

The BOND Standards project's subsequent research will include consumer insights and collaboration with brands, with the objective of developing operational measurement tools and informing future policy discussions.